What you can find in this blog

July 28th, 2009 Amit No comments

The main areas that I visited in 2006:

India : Ladakh and South India
Australia & New Zealand
China, Thailand, Cambodia, Laos
Europe
Central Asia – Uzbekistan and Turkmenistan

2009 – Restarting this blog

July 27th, 2009 Amit No comments

In 2006 I had started this blog to record my thoughts as I traveled around the world on a 6 month sabbatical. 3 years on, I am now married, have a son, and am back in New York at my job.

I am now starting my blog again, with the intention of making this a resource for travelers who want to head out on their own, or with friends/family, and are seeking destinations, tips and things to do that one wont find in the typical guidebook.

Back in a city I truly am in love with

September 18th, 2006 Amit No comments

One of the many cliches, oft repeated to the point of annoyance, is “absence makes a heart grow fonder”. Now that I am back, after a six month separation, while unfortunately there’s no heart waiting for me to grow fonder of, I have realized that New York is a city I love, and its attraction has only grown as I traversed the globe.

I’ve had no trouble re-adjusting to life in the big city. In fact, I think I would be in trouble if I were to live anywhere else. I would probably shoot myself in a fit of depression if I had returned from this long break to suburbia (no offense to any of my readers who hail from this construct of the modern urban planner).

There really is something about New York. I got in early morning on Monday, and feeling a little low, I decided to head out for a run. As I jogged outside, amidst the old buildings, basking in the mid-morning sun, watching people walking about, eating at cafes. seeing the various eclectic stores that would survive only in a city like New York, my spirits started rising. Its really one of those few places where you can see people, shops, and restaurants from across the world in the course of a 3 mile run.
Sorority sisters from connecticut and their ohmigods and totallys
yelled over fancy pink cellphones with flashing lights, tall burly
jamaicans and their dreadlocks, an old asian couple walking slowly hand-in-hand right past a muslim man with his traditional skullcap speaking arabic on his cell phone right beside a couple of eastern european movers having an argument over something. Gay couples walking comfortably, with neither them nor the rest of the pedestrians feeling that anything’s different. A sign for an upcoming “dog gym” that caters especially to “smaller breeds” jostles for attention with one announcing the latest Will Farrell offering. Both are pasted on the temporary wall of some shop undergoing renovation. And of course, I’ll have to admit, being summer, the sight of lovely women running and walking in the latest fashions will uplift the spirits of even the most depressed ;-)

Last month, around the time of the terror alert in Heathrow, when terrorism showed its head again, putting the world in a fit of paranoia laced with fear, I was in Chennai, India. My mother, sitting next to me and watching the story unravel in the media frenzy that followed the events, asked me, after one particularly zealous reporter tried to paint a picture of impending doom for anyone remotely associated with New York or the United States of America, why through all this travel I hadn’t found an alternate job in London, or Australia or even better, Mumbai or Chennai. Her fear was understandable, as was that of most of the world, whose source of information are ratings-hungry television channels. While one reason why I didn’t find anything was that I hadn’t really looked (my resume has not been updated since 2003), the second, and more important reason was that I hadn’t yet found a reason to leave New York. I am sure I could enjoy a life just as much in London, or Melbourne or Mumbai, and at the very least get something larger than the shoebox I call my apartment, as well as probably find something with a better quality of life, it would not be the same as New York.

I like New York because it has, in one small island, all the things that I look for when I travel around the world. I was heading to work the other morning, on the Number 4 train, and I realized what it was about the city that appealed to me. In that one subway car, there were a couple of monkeys in suits (including me), a girl in gothic chic, a couple of school children in uniform, a man with crooked teeth and torn clothes, a lady choosing to read out loud passages from the bible, amongst an assortment of people from various walks of life, and various races. The difference though, was that no one gave the other person a second glance- there was no feeling of being scrutinized because of what you wear, or where you come from or how you look- you can be anybody you want to be. Your personal life, in this city of 8 million people, is only yours. I am yet to see that anywhere else in the world.

Categories: New York Tags: , ,

Should I wear Hugo Boss when traveling?

August 24th, 2006 Amit No comments

Confessions of an Asian World Traveler

Following the uncovering of the London terror plot to blow up planes, life’ s gotten a little more difficult for the average air traveler, and more so for the “middle-eastern looking” ones. While extra security is warranted, a nd even welcome, I do worry about the new “Salem Witch Hunt” that’s emergin g amongst passengers, where passenger paranoia can cause a couple of studen ts on a holiday to be evicted from a plane.

Having traveled by air a fair bit, and across various parts of the world, b ased on my profile, I expect to get additinal scrutiny at airports. I am In dian, and therefore, for the chromatically challenged, I could qualify as ” middle-eastern looking”. I generally travel light, with hand baggage only. Most of my flights are booked last minute, as I generally don’t plan in adv ance. The bulk of my baggage is electronic goods- laptop, cellphone, iPod, voice recorder, three cameras, two lenses, USB card reader, and various wir es, chargers and associated parapharnelia.

I’m used to being checked by security. I was stopped by security just prior to boarding a flight from Istanbul to JFK, and questioned for twenty minut es by security personnel, who finally let me go after scrutinizing all my w ork papers, my business card, and all prior air tickets and hotel reservati ons. In Kunming, China, where I was the only Indian on the plane that came in from Laos, a customs official decided to try using all the skills he’d l earnt in training on me, and scrutinized every single article I owned, and asked me about each and every item he found, why I was in China, how long I planned to be there, etc. etc. I’ve already mentioned in this blog about h ow authorities in Jamaica and Amsterdam convinced me that its better to be clean shaven when traveling.

I don’t complain when stopped. In fact, I feel more confident that security procedures are working, when I am stopped for additional scrutiny. I find it worrying when the security official does NOT ask me to open my laptop or iPod. Or when he opens only the front flap of my camera kitbag, and not bo thering to open the other two flaps where I have another camera, USB card r eader and other stuff stowed away. I would complain, however, if I was boot ed off a plane because the person next to me felt I was suspicious, because I looked different from him, or spoke in Bengali, which being non-European , could be mistaken by the phonetically challenged to be middle eastern as well, to my mother on my cell phone just before the closing of cabin doors, to let her know I was on the flight, or if, my inadvertant gesture of pray er, a casual hand movement from my heart to my head, a mixture of Hindu and Christian gestures that my non-religious sub-conscious mind inculcated as a child, turns out to be a signal for someone of my not-so-holy intention o f blowing myself up.

I know its hard for someone not to harbour such suspicions- its human natur e. I will admit, when the news broke of the students being booted off the f light in Spain because of “dress inappropriate for the environment”, I seri ously considered, for a moment, whether to wear my Hugo Boss suit on the fl ight, instead of my usual summer wear of jeans and kurta. I also felt glad I wasn’t muslim, even though “Amit” and “Ahmad” sound similar to the untrai ned western ear. And then I wondered- if I feel this insecure being non-mus lim and non-middle eastern, what about the travelers who are muslim, and ar e middle eastern, and not terrorists? i.e., a profile that fits 99.9% of mi ddle-eastern, muslim travelers.

Even I have been led to double standards. I will also admit, that when I se e someone young and middle-eastern in line at security or check-in, I do gi ve him more attention. I remember in Bangkok, standing in line at departure , with two young Saudi gentlemen. They wore flashy gold rings, necklaces et c., and had in their hands large stuffed animals. Instead of standing patie ntly in line, they were jumping from one line to another, trying to find th e shortest one. While their trying to find the shortest line was annoying, and they looked horribly out of place holding stuffed animals, neither I, o r any of the other passengers around, felt that we should take the law into our own hands and insist that they be removed. You’ve got to figure that t he security personnel probably have the same fears as you, and will take th e necessary security measures.

Which brings me to the point of this long rambling post- Tightening of secu rity, leading to inconvenience and questioning, is welcome, and maybe even necessary in this world. But passenger paranoi, fed by an over-zealous medi a, only leads to creating an environment of suspicion and fear which leads to nowhere.

I wonder what would happen if the next terrorist to be arrested and convinc ted turned out to be Caucasian or Oriental in appearance?

Two worlds, one city – A bicycle ride through South Chennai

August 16th, 2006 Amit No comments

For the past week or so, I’ve been in Chennai, the city where I grew up. It=
s been a mix of spending time with family and friends, relaxing, as well as=
exploring. For the first time in six years I’m actually living life in Che=
nnai, instead of making a hurried visit to the city.

Chennai, like almost anything in India is full of contrasts, and just one d=
ay here brings that out. Chennai traffic is a mess, with roads woefully ina=
dequate for the hundreds of new Hondas, Toyotas and Chevys that hit the cit=
y streets, fueled by the IT boom. The municpial corporation, never one for =
ingenuity and efficiency, a center of either lethargy or incompetance, cann=
ot be relied on to provide proper street lighting, clean roads, and other b=
asic amenities that would be expected in one of the fastest growing cities =
in the world, where residential real estate costs between $100-$200 a sq. f=
t. The traffic police continue to be incompetent as well as corrupt. The mu=
ch awaited Mass Transit System is about twenty years behind schedule. As a =
result of all these macro issues, and the fact that I don’t have an Indian =
Drivers license, and my mother doesn’t have a driver, drove me into borrowi=
ng our watchman’s (Security Guard for the American readers) bicyle to make =
my way around the city.

This afternoon, I headed out on to the roads on a bicyle whose brakes have =
a mind of their own, which most of the time resides in a different world, a=
nd refuses to cooperate, despite all my advances. This is especially discon=
certing when you have a bus rushing past you on the right, a mass of people=
at the bus stop rushing towards the bus from the left, and two motorbikes =
behind you that have a deathwish. Spending even a few minutes on the street=
s in India will provide you with an answer to why Hindus have many gods. Wi=
th so much chaos on the roads, you need several gods working full time to e=
nsure a safe journey. Anyway, thanks to the multiple prayers to multiple go=
ds that my mother performs each morning and evening, I made my way safely t=
hrough the chaotic main roads of Adyar and towards Taramani, which is the n=
ew town built in the past two years on what was essentially barren land. As=
soon as you cross a recently constructed bridge, its as if you have moved =
to a different country. Gone are the crowds, the dirt, the drime, the chaos=
.. Instead, if you make your way past the security guard, you are in a compl=
ex that could be anywhere in the world. The Ascendas IT Park is a glass and=
concrete structure that houses centers for several of Indian Infotech comp=
anies. When you walk through a lobby that’s more spacious and modern than m=
ost buildings in New York, you see a high-tech card access system standing =
between you and an elevator bank that would take you to offshoring offices =
where someone is writing bank software for Citibank, or someone is taking f=
lak from a lady in Ohio who found an error in her Amex card. In the lobby, =
you have a wonderful food court, and a gym whose membership is costing me m=
ore than my New York Health and Racquet Club fees! The shops in the complex=
cater completely to yuppiedom, with two coffee shops, a computer store, a =
“Dollar Store”, fancy gift store, and a couple of mobile phone shops.=20

Some people point to places like this and talk about the phenomenal change =
engulfing India and taking it into the ranks of the developed world. Sure, =
places like this are extremely comfortable, and feel very western, and have=
not only provided employment to hundreds, but also provided them with an o=
utlet to spend their money and enjoy life as well. And for a yuppieish pers=
on like me, having a western-style gym, and a starbucks-type coffee shop, p=
rovide me with some of my creature comforts in a place I would least expect=
to fnd them. Yet, it take me less than two minutes on my watchman’s ricket=
y bicycle without brakes, to go from this Disneyland into a muddy ditch tha=
t the corporation decided to leave unattended on a busy road, letting it fi=
ll up with rainwater. Another three minutes on the same cycle, after gettin=
g my face colored black by a polluting government bus, and nearly getting r=
un over by another, I find myself in front of a brand new residential apart=
ment building, with high walls, landscaped gardens, the works, which has, j=
ust outside it, a stinking garbage can that’s empty, but there’s garbage ly=
ing all around it. Yes, India is making its way to being developed, but eve=
n in its most tony regions, the basic tenets of development, namely cleanli=
ness and respect, seem like goals that are just not on the agenda. A comple=
x that provides everything within its compound, protecting itself from the =
world through high walls is easy, but providing those same standards outsid=
e those four walls is what’s required.